In case it wasn't cool enough that I am in Hong Kong for the week, Earlier in the week I applied for a visa to visit Mainland China. Today was the big day.
In preparation for my trip I took a number of precautions, both against crime and against myself. I left all of my jewelry in the hotel safe. I had no wish to attract unwanted attention, and I was told that pickpockets and other criminals would target people who appeared wealthy. I also carried my money in a wallet around my neck and under my shirt. My actual wallet I left in the safe; I carried my passport with me, but I was pretty certain that I would neither try to drive nor seek Ontario medical treatment today. I also decided ahead of time what I wanted to spend there, and left the rest of my cash (and credit cards & travelers cheques) at the hotel. This was not only to prevent pick-pockets, but also to prevent me from spending too much.
For those of you who are not entirely familiar with the situation, here is a brief explanation of what I call 'Three Chinas':
- In the mid-1800s England signed a lease for Hong Kong from China, including Kowloon. Throughout my childhood and early adult life there was great speculation on what would happen when that lease expired, in 1997.
- In 1928 Chiang Kai Shek, who had commanded the Northern Forces that unified China emerged as the leader of China; in the 1940s there was a revolution in China (led by Mao Dze Dong) that forced Shek's government out of Beijing and onto the Island of Taiwan, which would be known as the Taiwan Republic of China.
- The communist party (also led by Mao Dze Dong) formed a new government in Beijing, known to the world as the People's Republic of China.
So as 1997 approached it was clear that China could benefit from a different type of city such as Hong Kong, and it emerged that the colony would become a Special Administrative Region, or S.A.R. At least for citizens of Canada no visa is required to enter Hong Kong, and the city (at least most of the areas that I have visited) are quite well off, albeit with a very Oriental tint. My hotel rises 61 stories above Pacific Place, a very high-end mall with tenants such as Hermes, Chanel, Dunhill, and a hundred other names that make my wallet sweat. At a very different address, walking the streets of Shim Tsa Shui (Kowloon side) I got the feeling of a very large Chinatown, and not the fear-inducing poverty I might have expected.
In the mini-series based on the book Noble House, Casey Tcholok (played by Deborah Raffin) asks Ian Dunross Struan (played by Pierce Brosnan) what will happen in 1997, when China swallows Hong Kong. Struan replies 'Who knows... maybe it will be the other way around, and Hong Kong will swallow China.' That of course did not happen, but as China continuously evolves I wonder what effect the S.A.R. has on its development.
Nevertheless in order to enter Mainland China I had to apply for a visa. After getting off the train at Lo Wu station I went through Hong Kong Customs to leave Hong Kong, and then went to Chinese Immigration to enter the P.R.O.C. All of this went relatively smoothly; at the Chinese counter there were three buttons that let us rate the service, and I pressed the EXCELLENT button.
I entered another world; Shenzhen is a new city so it does not 
have a lot of the ancient mystique of other cities but it does have a different air to it... different from anything I have ever felt. I was in China, and it was as if the buildings, the air, the walls wanted me to know it. The people looked the same, but were so different. I spent some time walking around aimlessly - I had taken steps to avoid two people who identified me as a potential mark right outside of the border crossing by walking away from the shopping areas and into a large square with a fountain. A great place to take pictures for sure, as well as to meet a fellow Canadian. He and I decided to brave the mall together following a very cute woman 
who had approached him. He was looking for jeans, and I was looking for other stuff so we weren't together for long. I definitely spent more than I wanted to in the first shop, but they had almost everything that I wanted brought to me. I haggled down to roughly half of what they asked for, and walked out satisfied with my purchases of <deleted by censors - too many gifts> and a couple of watches and sunglasses for myself.
My next stop was a store that sold DVDs and I walked out with a couple that are still in theatres as well as a few recent movies that I haven't seen recently... ten movies for about $1 per DVD.
The tea shop was the absolute highlight of the day. I was escorted in by the shopkeeper who gave 
me her undivided attention for two hours, trying a plethora of different teas before I decided on three that I wanted to take home with me. The process that she went through to prepare the tea just so was incredible to watch, and I am angry that I lost the video I shot of her preparing a pot. However I did learn a thing or two, and hope that I will be able to retrace her steps when I return to Toronto... along with the most incredible hand-painted ceramic tea set I had ever seen! I was amazed both that I spent as much as I did in her store, and by how much and what wonderful things I got for that money. I do not regret the money I spent, I am simply surprised by it.
I had bought roughly everything that I had hoped to and a few unexpected things, so I decided I just wanted to walk around for a little. I realized at some point that I had eaten precisely three slices of dry bread today, so I ducked into a very good restaurant for dim sum. The food was excellent, but it was the tea that really intrigued me; the water was poured into a traditional cup - plain white but in the same style as I had seen in the tea store. It was poured by a tea steward from a pot with a five-foot spout. He was literally metres from the table, and had aim that did not miss once.
I wandered for a little longer... the jewelry section was crowded to the point of my avoiding it completely... two friends will be disappointed but I could not bring myself to go through it. I did stop at a stall that sold chops... Chinese stones with a unique stamp carved into it to use as a signature. I had one carved with my name and will scan and post it when I think of it.
I left China around 5pm and was back at my hotel by 6:15... the train is extremely modern and comfortable, and I decided to forego politeness and fight my way on for a seat so I did not have to stand for the whole journey.
I wish I had more time to travel around, not only Shenzhen but into Fujian, Shanghai, and Beijing. One day I hope to return to China and spend the time... but it will have to wait for another opportunity. For now I am satisfied that I can cross one more goal off my list. See you tomorrow!